Newsletter #39 – the Waiter’s Restaurant – Gnocchi

You may remember Newsletter # 31 when I wrote about Australia’s Coffee Culture, and I briefly mentioned The Windsor Hotel in Melbourne. That hotel was to be the subject of today’s newsletter, but during my research I noticed a restaurant behind the Windsor Hotel and remembered that Chris and I had enjoyed a memorable meal here, some years ago. It’s called the Waiters Restaurant and while it does not have the same pedigree as its five-star neighbour, it does have an interesting history and great food.

When it opened in 1947 the restaurant was called The Italian Waiters Club. It was an after-work venue for hospitality workers of either Italian or Spanish origin. There they could get a meal or a glass of wine, play cards and relax. In its early days you required a password to get in which probably gave them time to tidy up the various licensing laws they were in breach of.

It eventually became popular with reporters, police and politicians because of the notoriety of an incident in 1978 when it made the newspaper headlines. The patrons of the restaurant were taken hostage by a shotgun wielding sympathiser of a high profile criminal, serving time in Pentridge Prison. The stand-off was diffused, but the days of The Waiters Restaurant flying under the radar were over.

Fortunately for everyone, the restaurant not only survived, but it has thrived.

I’m not sure how we ended up in Meyer’s Place that evening, but we may have been on the way to another venue recommended to us. We had probably realised that we were in the wrong lane (one of many Melbourne lanes) and had stopped to regroup.  A man brushed past us and disappeared into a darkened doorway and Chris and I watched him disappear up some gloomy, steep stairs. After a few seconds I thought I heard conversations from the top of the stairs, but then the voices stopped. I looked up and noticed a sign that suggested a restaurant was at the top of the stairs. We took a chance and followed the man, carefully negotiating the stairs.

The illumination at the top of the stairs was only marginally improved by a smoky glass window beside the single door. I opened the door and before me was a restaurant full of diners seemingly having a good time. Someone who appeared to work there pointed us to what could have been the last two seats available. It was definitely a no frills restaurant.

Our seats were on a long share table, and our dining companions didn’t seem to mind. The menu is Italian cuisine with a few Melbourne staples also available – yes, the dreaded schnitzel. We chose pasta, garlic bread and a glass of wine. The portions were generous, the flavours authentic and it was surprisingly inexpensive. The atmosphere is rustic, not too rowdy and thoroughly deserving of consistently good ratings.

While my choice of pasta that evening was a good one, I had eyed the gnocchi which was on the ‘specials’ side of their blackboard menu, so for this newsletter I thought I would prepare gnocchi.

Gnocchi

The history of this variation of pasta can be traced back to Roman times when it was prepared with semolina porridge and eggs. As the Roman Empire expanded, it became popular in other regions and alternative ingredients such as wheat flour and breadcrumbs were used, dependent on the region.

In the 16^th century, potatoes arrived from the Americas and by the 19^th century Potatoes were a common ingredient in Gnocchi, particularly in the northern regions of Italy. Other common ingredients used in gnocchi are cheese, corn meal, pumpkin and Durum wheat.

While Gnocchi could be served simply tossed in butter and sprinkled with parmesan, gnocchi loves nothing better than to be served in a classic Italian sauce. I’m teaming my gnocchi with a pesto sauce.

Most recipes call for the potatoes to be boiled, but for this recipe I am going to bake the potatoes on coarse salt. This should ensure a ‘dryer’ cooked potato and a firmer mix.

Gnocchi recipe

Ingredient for 500g uncooked gnocchi (about 4 entree portions):

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Servings: 4 entree serves

Course: Main Course

Ingredients Method

Ingredients

  

• 500 g even sized potatoes Sebago or Desiree preferred
• 1 cup plain flour 125g
• ½ tsp salt
• 1 egg at room temperature
• 1 cup coarse salt
• A little extra plain flour

Method

 

1. Assemble your ingredients
   
2. Wash and dry the unpeeled potatoes
3. Set your oven (or air-fryer) to 200c
4. Place pinenuts on baking tray and bake in the oven for 5 minutes until slightly brown and place in container to cool
   
5. Using the baking tray place the potatoes on a bed of coarse salt and prick the potatoes with a fork a few times
   
6. Place the tray potatoes in the oven
7. Cook the potatoes until soft – about 50 minutes
   
8. When cooked take the potatoes out of the oven and cool them a little
9. Using a gloved hand split the potatoes and rub the potato flesh through a fine sieve, without the skin, cool slightly
   
10. In a bowl mix, the flour and salt, followed by the potato and egg
    
11. Mix to form soft dough. It should not stick to your fingers
    
12. Turn the mix out onto a lightly floured board
13. On this lightly floured surface divide the mix into three and gently roll them into even thickness ‘sausage’ shapes
    
14. Cut small amounts of the dough in 2cm chunks
    
15. Roll them gently with the back of a fort and sprinkle them with a little flour.
16. Rest the Gnocchi for 30 minutes before cooking
17. It would be a good time to prepare the sauce (see separate pesto sauce recipe)
    
18. In a large saucepan bring to a rolling boil a generous amount of salted water and about 20ml of olive oil
19. Add the gnocchi. It should take around 2-3 minutes, but they will float to the surface when ready
    
20. Drain them well in a colander and add them directly to the sauce
    

Pesto cream sauce

This is a versatile recipe that will convert you from ever purchasing the bottled variety again. Unused pesto has reasonably good keeping qualities and can also be turned into a dip.

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Servings: 4 entree serves

Course: Sauces

Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients

  

• 2 cups fresh basil leaves rinsed and dried
• 3 cloves garlic peeled
• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
• ½ cup grated parmesan cheese
• 65 g toasted pine nuts cooled
• salt and cracked black pepper to taste
• a few drops of lemon juice
• 300 ml cream
• splash of dry white wine
• extra shaved parmesan for sprinkling
• a few nice basil leaves for garnish

Equipment

• I used my Braun blender attachment for pesto part of the recipe.

Method

 

1. Assemble your ingredients
   
2. Using your already pre-heated oven ‘toast’ the pine nuts – it should take about 5 minutes
   
3. In your blender place the basil, garlic, parmesan, pine nuts, lemon juice and a little seasoning
   
4. On medium speed blend these ingredients to form a paste
   
5. Add the olive oil and continue blending to make a thick paste
   
6. Check seasoning
7. Store in the refrigerator in a sealed container, or continue with the pasta sauce
   
8. Heat the cream until almost boiling before stirring in the pesto
9. Add the cooked Gnocchi and gently coat with sauce
10. Serve topped with shaved parmesan and garnished with fresh basil leaf

Notes

If you feel your sauce is too thick add a little of the gnocchi boiling water or white wine.
Avoid over-cooking the sauce once the basil has been added for it will dull the vibrant green colour.
Experiment with other nuts. I have used both cashews and macadamias in similar recipes
Likewise try rocket leaves instead of basil
If you feel the pesto cream sauce is a little too rich try the tomato sauce recipe from Newsletter # 20