Author: Ken

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Newsletter #13 – Scotch Broth & Cacciatore Sauce

History Bites  – A quick  look at the origin of the modern menu

For many years European cuisine and British Cuisine in particular was influenced by the French. So much so that many French Culinary words have been absorbed into the English language. Ones that quickly come to mind include Croissant, terrine, soufflé, hollandaise and canapé.

Two French phrases are the basis for the structure of the modern written menu – table d’hote and a la carte. A third French phrase, service a la francaise, we now call the buffet.

 

Table d’hôte . From its origins in the 17th century table d’hôte is now a familiar way of presenting a menu. A literal translation is “the hosts table “and basically it means a fixed menu at a fixed price. A wedding menu would fall into this category. This type of menu could be as simple as offering a single selection of one entree, one main and one dessert but it would more likely offer the guest a choice from at least two entrees, two mains and two desserts. Generally the guest accepts what is put in front of them. Often only the host knows the fixed price or price per head. Here the chef would hopefully take considerable care in offering a well balanced menu.

Another interpretation of this style of menu would be a restaurant that would offer multiple choices of each course at a set price. I would think that this style of menu is very popular in good restaurants now. A guest may be offered two courses at a particular price or three courses for a higher price. Side dishes that once upon a time were “included” are generally priced separately. Hopefully restaurant staff would guide the patron in making wise selections.

A third example of table d’hôte is a degustation menu. Here multiple small courses are offered at a set price and it is almost always accompanied by matching wines and beverages to complement each course.

The a la carte menu came to the fore in the early Nineteenth Century. A literal translation of the term is “at the card”. Here a customer would choose from a menu where everything has an individual price and the menu could be quite extensive. If you were dining in a restaurant featuring an a la carte menu you might expect that most menu items were cooked to order (yes that used to happen)but more likely there may be some items pre-prepared. Regardless of this you would expect a high degree of service by knowledgeable staff.

In Australia many club and hotel bistros offer a la carte menus but with heavy reliance on pre-prepared food. Here price pointing is important with the aim of attracting the general population.  Customers decide for themselves what to eat, often with the help of photos or displays. The level of service is often limited to cashiers and plate clearers.

When I was growing up, if you were dining a la carte it was considered posh and probably a rare event. Cole’s cafeteria, a local cafe, the fish and chip shop or a Chinese restaurant were more likely alternatives, but none of these were on a regular basis. Today, dining out for many is the norm and as consumers we are spoilt for choice. We have a multitude of restaurants and dining options offering either specialisation or a mishmash of culinary styles. Hidden within it all, but not forgotten, are those two terms.

The much maligned buffet became popularised in the nineteenth century (with those who could afford it), with after theatre crowd suppers. The buffet is a form of self service/self selection from an array of food on open display. Nowadays it has various interpretations throughout the world and across all strata’s of society. At one end of the scale you would have correctional institutions often being served at a form of buffet with strict price controls, while a New Year’s Eve buffet at a popular restaurant in New York would have almost unlimited options with both pricing and the quality and variety of food.

In Australia, the Coles Cafeteria (yes that qualifies as a buffet) had a run of more than 50 years from 1928 and for many of those years it was a family favourite. In our youth a trip to Coles and its cafeteria was a special treat offering multi coloured jellies and a soft drink and ice cream concoction called a “spider”. My favourite was a “Lime Spider”.

Two years before the demise of the Coles cafeteria in 1987, Sizzlers was born in Brisbane. The concept proved very popular and became the go-to family restaurant. Memorable for its toasty cheese bread and unlimited buffet visits, you could also order grilled items.

By the early 2000’s things weren’t as rosy for Sizzlers. Changing trends in eating out led to a revenue slide and Covid was the nail in the coffin, with the last Sizzler’s outlet closing in 2020. We had three or four Sizzler’s restaurants locally and I can still recall the shock of their closure.

These days buffets are not uncommon, but they are generally found within the club industry, particularly in NSW, where larger clubs can offer a variety of dining options. Other popular locations for buffets are the tourism operators which ply their trade within the harbours of our larger cities. And let us not forget the buffets with perhaps an undeserved bad reputation – the ones that are enjoyed by 1.2 million Australians cruise passengers annually.

 

     

Thinking about cruising and cruise ships, my earliest recollection of dining out with a menu in front of me was on the P and O – Orient Ship the S.S. Oriana in 1962. I’m sure there were earlier occurrences but this was a special time.

The Oriana, in March of 1962, had been involved in a collision with an aircraft carrier in California. I’m not sure how long the Oriana was out of service but it had resumed its cruises out Sydney later in the year and our family was on the Christmas – New Years cruise.

At the time the ship had two classes – First Class and Tourist Class (where we were) and the livery of the ship was a corn coloured hull with a white superstructure. There was only one restaurant in tourist class but I recall they had an occasional ice-cream outlet offering three flavours of ice-cream, an impressive afternoon teas set up in the ballroom and also a lunch buffet in the same room.

On board they had a “Junior Club” but apparently I ate in the restaurant with the rest of our family. Every morning a bugle melody would resonate through the ship (well at least in tourist class) calling passengers to breakfast. The aroma of the freshly baked bread rolls was wonderful and I always had two.

Other memories were the guided tours through the engine room, the Bridge and naturally through the massive galley. It was while watching the kitchen brigade working that I developed an interest in cooking.

Below are two menus, a breakfast and a dinner from that first of four trips our family did on the Oriana in the 60’s. The third menu is a luncheon menu from a 1985 cruise that Mum and Dad went on. By then the Orient Line name had disappeared, the ship was painted all white and it was a single class ship.

Looking at the breakfast and dinner menus you’ll note the strong British influence with French overtones. You’ll also notice that on both the luncheon and dinner menus cheese is served as a final course – that’s the English way. In France cheese is served before dessert or in place of dessert.  I remember that the Head Chef was British as were many of the crew.

     

 

Twenty two years later , in 1985, not a lot had changed but there were a few international dishes creeping in on the luncheon menu, which reflected the multi-cultural nature of Australia. Note the addition of Australian wine by the bottle, the house wine by the glass and check out the prices. Also of interest was the Consommé Olga which was also featured on the menu of the RMS Titanic on the 14th April, 1912.

After starting my cooking apprenticeship I found myself often correcting people when they referred to luncheon as dinner and dinner as ‘tea’. I also started using the 24 hour clock. Yes I worked with European Chefs. In retrospect that must have really annoyed my family and friends.

So the two recipes today are re-created from the 1985 luncheon menu.  Firstly a hearty soup – Scotch Broth and for the second is Farfalle Cacciatore where we will also have a look at another Mother sauce – Tomato.

Scotch broth

The technical name for this soup is a potage. That means that it is a soup thickened by the weight of its ingredients; strain the soup and you will have just broth with perhaps a slight thickening from the starch of the potatoes and barley. Scotch broth had its origins naturally in Scotland and was written about in the early 1800’s. Like many dishes that came from a working class background it utilised the most abundant and cheapest ingredients available – mutton neck, barley and root vegetables. After breaking-the-fast a cast iron pot would be filled with ingredients before being swung over the fireplace where it would slowly cook and be ready for the workers returning for their early afternoon dinner. This soup has similarities to other soups of peasant origin; soups such as minestrone and Spanish bean soup.

Scotch broth

Scotch broth is a hearty winter soup that I am sure you will enjoy. Mutton has been replaced by lamb and the vegetables are progressively added to maintain their shape and texture. The ‘greens’ are added closed to the end to maintain their colour. You’ll note that neither the lamb nor the vegetables are sautéed or sweated – everything is simmered. 
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Course: Soup
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

Ingredients for 5 litres:
  • 1 cup pearl barley soaked in 3cups of cold water for 6 – 8 hours
  • 1200 g boneless lamb shoulder or 900g boneless lamb leg
  • 2 litres vegetable stock
  • 2 bay leaf
  • Seasoning
  • 2 sprigs of thyme
  • 1 Swede or turnip about 250g, peeled, 1 cm dice
  • 250 g carrots peeled, 1cm dice
  • 650 g potato peeled, 1cm dice
  • 1 large leek trimmed, halved, washed, green and white separated
  • 2 celery stalks trimmed, peeled, 1 cm dice.
  • ¼ of a Savoy cabbage about 400g, cored, 1cm dice.
  • 1/3 cup curly parsley leaf rinsed, pat dried, roughly chopped (1/3 cup finished)
  • Salt and Pepper
  • Crusty bread to serve

Equipment

  • One sizable saucepan is all you will need for this recipe.

Method
 

  1. Soak the barley, preferably the night before.
  2. Prepare vegetables
  3. Place the lamb, stock, bay leaves and thyme in your saucepan. Slowly bring it to the boil before turning it down to simmer for one hour
  4. Gently skim the scum from the surface of the soup and discard the scum.
  5. Add the Swede, carrot and the white of leek. Continue simmering for a further hour
  6. Add a little water to compensate the evaporation.
  7. Add the barley and any of the water the barley hasn’t soaked up.
  8. Add the potato. Continue simmering for another 15 minutes
  9. Take out and discard the bay leaf and thyme
  10. The meat should be tender enough to take out of the soup. Cut the meat into a one cm dice, discarding any sinew or excess fat. Add the diced meat back into the soup.
  11. Add the green leek, celery and cabbage to the soup. Simmer for a further 15 minutes
  12. Gently skim the surface of fat. There should be more fat if you are using lamb shoulder. Alternatively carefully use some absorbent kitchen paper to soak it up
  13. Add the parsley and serve

Notes

Alternatively you could use lamb shanks, just allow for the bone’s weight.
I used boneless lamb leg. If you are using other cuts you will need to extend your cooking time by perhaps one hour before you add the carrot and Swede.
Turnip is another vegetable you could use as well as or instead of Swede
Maybe avoid parsnip
Kumara would make it more ‘down under ‘style. Add that with the potatoes.

Farfalline Cacciatore

By 1985 Italian cuisine was well entrenched in Australia thanks to post-war migrants, so it was not surprising to see it on the Oriana’s menu. Farfalline pasta is a miniature version of Farfalle pasta and we often refer to it as bow-tie pasta. Its origin is from northern Italy can be traced back to the 16th century. You may find Farfalline harder to find than its big brother which is what I will use.

Cacciatore sauce is often associated with braised chicken, but it is a standalone sauce that can also be used with rabbit, lamb or potatoes, in a similar way or just as a straight pasta sauce. Interestingly you can use either red or white wine and either black or green olives. I prefer  fresh tomatoes in season but the standard 400g can of peeled or crushed tomatoes is a good substitute and also cheaper. Two saucepans (one with a lid), a colander and a small mixing bowl are required for this recipe.

 

Cacciatore Sauce Ingredients

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Course: Main Course, Sauces
Ingredients Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 40 ml olive oil
  • 1 medium onion peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1/2 red capsicum deseeded, de-stalked, white removed, thinly sliced
  • 1/2 green capsicum deseeded, de-stalked, white removed, thinly sliced
  • 4 garlic cloves peeled, crushed or thinly sliced
  • 200 g button mushrooms washed, pat dry, sliced
  • 5 ml lemon juice
  • Leaf from two sprigs fresh thyme
  • ½ tsp ground turmeric
  • Sea salt
  • Cracked black pepper
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • Generous pinch of chilli flakes
  • 200 ml chardonnay or any dry white wine
  • 400 g can crushed tomatoes
  • 80 g of Kalamata olives drained and pitted.
  • Vegetable stock optional

Method
 

  1. Ingredients
  2. Heat the oil in a suitable sized saucepan
  3. Add the onion and garlic and sweat for two minutes
  4. Add both capsicums and continue cooking for another three minutes
  5. Add the mushrooms and lemon juice. Cook until the liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated. Turn the heat down
  6. Add the thyme, turmeric chilli flakes and tomato paste and cook for another two minutes
  7. Add white wine and tomatoes and bring the sauce to the boil before turning the heat down to maintain a low simmer for 10 minutes. Lid the saucepan
  8. Add the olives and continue cooking for another 10 minutes.
  9. Check seasoning and serve.
THE PASTA:
  1. Allow 100g pasta per person or a little more or less depending on your appetite
  2. Follow the instructions on the packet
  3. When the pasta is cooked to your liking drain the pasta.
  4. The pasta is best when you don’t rinse it.
  5. When it is well drained place your pasta in the mixing bowl with a little of the Cacciatore sauce and fold the sauce in
  6. Portion the pasta in pre-warmed serving bowls followed by a generous ladle of sauce
  7. Top with freshly grated parmesan cheese (optional)

Notes

You will find the colour of the green capsicum will dull with only a little cooking so you can replace it with more red capsicum or yellow. Alternatively sweat the green capsicum separately at the last minute and either fold into the finished sauce or place on top
Replacing the dry white wine with a red variety shouldn’t change the flavour too much but there will be a difference in colour
Drained and pitted green Manzanilla olives can be substituted for the black olives.

In season tomatoes:

During our Australian summer we have available some delicious tomatoes and I often use ripe Roma tomatoes in both sauce and soup recipes. They are easily prepared and will give you a great start for any tomato based sauce.

Firstly pre-heat your oven to 150c then wash and core one kilo of firm ripe Roma tomatoes. Split the tomatoes and place in a baking dish and sprinkle with 50ml olive oil and a little salt and cracked black pepper. Roast in the oven for one hour.  Add sliced onion and garlic after 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. The tomatoes will collapse and the flavour will intensify.  There should still be lots of juice but you are going to blend everything, but do not strain. Use the blended mix in place of the crushed tomato, onion and garlic in the Cacciatore sauce.

Your finished Cacciatore sauce will be smoother with the other ingredients becoming more visible.

 

French Mother Sauces – Tomato Sauce– not to be confused with Tomato ketchup

Previously when we did the meat mixed grill I gave you the recipe for our first “Mother Sauce” –Espagnole. Last issue , in the Chicken Tetrazzini recipe we made a veloute sauce, but I forgot to tell you that it was another of the  five “Mother Sauces” – we’ll go back to that in a future issue.

The classic Tomato sauce still has a place in our kitchens even though it’s not used as much as it used to be and there is less of a tendency to use roux in tomato based sauces – but it’s worthwhile having a look at it.  The process is similar to sauce Espagnole. You’ll need a thick bottom lidded saucepan or Dutch oven and a strainer for this recipe.

ClassicTomato sauce

makes about 2 - 2.5 litres finished sauce :
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Course: Sauces
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 40 g butter
  • 40 g plain flour
  • 60 g smoky bacon diced small
  • 1 cup carrots washed, small dice
  • 1 cup onions peeled, small dice
  • 1 cup celery washed, small dice, avoid leaf
  • 6 mushroom stalks optional
  • 4 parsley stalks
  • 2 cloves garlic peeled, thinly sliced
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 400g cans crushed tomatoes
  • 1 litre vegetable stock
  • Scant salt and pepper

Equipment

  • You’ll need a thick bottom lidded saucepan or Dutch oven and a strainer for this recipe.

Method
 

  1. Ingredients
  2. Melt the butter in over medium heat and gently sauté the bacon.
  3. Add the carrots, onion, celery, mushroom stalk and garlic and sweat for a further 5 minutes
  4. Take the saucepan off the heat and mix in the flour. Return the saucepan to the heat and add the stock and tomatoes. Stir to break up the roux.
  5. Add the thyme, parsley and bay leaf
  6. Bring  liquid to the boil before turning down to a low simmer and lid the pot
  7. Simmer for 1.5 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching
  8. Strain the sauce, avoiding pushing the vegetables through the sieve.
  9. If needed return the sauce to the saucepan to further concentrate the sauce
  10. A little seasoning when done
  11. Use, refrigerate or freeze the finished sauce

Notes

A dated recipe, but still tasty. More relevant for perhaps a cream of tomato soup
You may be wondering, after looking at the last picture, why do we throw away all the vegetables? Firstly remember it is a Tomato sauce not tomato and vegetable sauce. However if you take more care with preparing the vegetables, that is peeling the carrot and celery and making sure the cuts are actually even in size and then removing the thyme and bay leaf you would then have a different sauce without straining.

 

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Newsletter # 12 – Cooking for one

 

Cooking for one

You would think cooking for just yourself would be easier and cheaper. Unfortunately it is not the case. There are two main reasons for this.

Firstly the recipes we use are generally for two or more people.

Secondly, when we purchase food we have fewer options available for single diners. Supermarkets will offer a far better price per kilo for pre-packaged fruit and vegetables, while canned goods are generally too much of a single ingredient for a single portion recipe.

Invariably, purchasing in larger quantities can lead to monotony. What to do. Here a few ideas.

  • Take a little time to plan your menus for the week.
  • Select recipes which give you flexibility with the main ingredient. For example mince beef (still the cheapest way of purchasing beef) could be made into meatballs, bolognaise or Shepherd’s pie. Those three dishes can also be made with other types of mince
  • Some of your recipes will have to be freeze stable. By that I mean food that can be frozen and be reconstituted with minimal loss of quality or flavour. Lasagne and casseroles are good examples while thawed grilled meats (by themselves) are poor.
  • Incorporate your vegetables into rice, pasta or noodles to serve with your main course. Alternatively do a medley of roast vegetables, bouillon vegetables or stir fry vegetables
  • If you prefer fresh, buy fresh. Alternatively there are very good individually frozen fish portions available. Barramundi, salmon and green prawns come to mind.
  • Consider cutting up a whole fresh chicken into its various parts and freezing certain portions for later use. Chicken breast fillet, done this way is superior to store bought fillets plus the overall cost will be cheaper.

 

Our second recipe today is an example of “Bricolage”. You may remember I used that term in the first newsletter with the recipe for Chicken Marengo. Basically it is an original recipe based on whatever ingredients you have on hand. At home I call it my “clean out the fridge recipe” and it uses up accumulated bits and pieces. But first let’s have a look at the recipe using minced beef.

Meatloaf Mignon

This recipe will give you three good size portions. For variety you could make one or two portions into meat loaf mignon and then turn the balance into meatballs to serve later in the week with spaghetti.
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Course: Main Course
Ingredients Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 20 ml olive oil
  • 100 g mix of onion/carrot/celery finely chopped
  • 250 g lean beef mince
  • One egg
  • 70 g coarse breadcrumb
  • 80 ml milk
  • 1/8 tsp paprika
  • 1/8 tsp thyme
  • 1/8 tsp chopped chilli
  • ¼ tsp onion powder
  • A few drops of Worcestershire sauce.
  • Salt and pepper to taste.
  • 3 x 35g approx rind less streaky bacon – 15cm-17cm long

Method
 

  1. In a saucepan sweat the onion mix in the oil and butter on a low heat about 3 minutes. Cool to room temperature
  2. In a small bowl soak the breadcrumbs with the milk
  3. In a separate mixing bowl place all other ingredients, except bacon. Mix by hand.
  4. Add the breadcrumbs to the meat mix. Mix really well.
  5. Cover and refrigerate the meat mix
  6. On a clean board, split the bacon length wise
  7. Form a cross with two strips of bacon.
  8. Divide the meat into three even portions. Form the in your hands in large balls.
  9. Place the meatball on top of the bacon and wrap the bacon around the meat.
  10. Repeat with the other two portions. Cover and refrigerate until needed
Cooking:
  1. Set oven or air fryer to 180c
  2. Place the three mignons in a small lightly greased baking dish and into the oven
  3. Cook for 15 mins before turning down to 150c for a further 20 minutes
  4. I served this with a Diane sauce. Mushroom sauce would also be suitable.

Notes

Assuming you are using fresh mince extra portions can be frozen in their uncooked state

Vegetable Parcel

So what do to when you have ingredients leftover? No I am not talking about “leftovers” I am referring to uncooked ingredients. It can be relatively easy as long as you follow two rules: The ingredients have to be useable i.e. still within their use-by date. The ingredients have to be compatible. It works best when you have a variety of ingredients – don’t overload with a single ingredient Apart from those suggestions it really is down to personal taste. This recipe made use of some filo pasty and an array of raw vegetables from the fridge as well as some cooked rice and mashed potato both of which were actual leftovers. It could be likened to a pasty without meat.
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Course: Main Course, Vegetarian
Ingredients Method

Ingredients
  

  • Olive oil
  • Garlic optional
  • Brown onion
  • Red onion
  • Sweet potato
  • Pumpkin
  • Carrot
  • Green beans
  • Corn
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli
  • Red Capsicum
  • Cooked rice
  • Spring onion
  • Vegetable seasoning Vegeta
  • Salt and Pepper
  • Filo pastry
  • Melted butter
Ingredients (sauce):
  • Tomato blanched and skinned.
  • Bottled pizza sauce

Method
 

  1. Prepare all the vegetables (washing and peeling) and cut into 4mm cubes.
  2. Line the prepared vegetables in the order presented above
  3. Heat a little oil in your frypan and sweat the onions for about 5 minutes
  4. Progressively add the other ingredients with the ones requiring the least amount of cooking added last.
  5. I micro waved the rice and potato to heat them before adding them to the mix
  6. Combine everything well and adjust the seasoning.
  7. Transfer the finished mix to a bowl and refrigerate
  8. Prepare the sauce by mixing all the ingredients and blending. Heat the sauce gently on the stove top or in the microwave oven.
Assembling the parcels:
  1. The number of sheets of pastry you will need depends on the amount of filling. Generally I use no more than three but most of the time I use two sheets
  2. Follow the instructions on the packet of filo pastry.
  3. Place one sheet of pastry on your clean bench top
  4. Brush the surface of the pastry with melted butter
  5. Add a third sheet and brush with butter if you like*
  6. Cover with a second sheet of pastry. Brush a little butter on the end of the pastry furthest from you
  7. About 10 cm from the end of the pastry closest to you place two ice cream scoops of chilled vegetable filling.
  8. Roll the pastry over the mix and turn in the pastry sides. Continue rolling (not too tight) until you have a neat parcel.
  9. Brush the parcel with butter all over
  10. Place the parcel on a baking tray (the join of the pastry down first)
  11. Prick a couple of holes in the top of the pastry
  12. Bake at 170c – 180c for 25 minutes or until golden brown.
  13. Serve with a tomato cream sauce

 

 

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Newsletter # 11 – Chicken Tetrazzini

 

I’ve heard of that: Chicken Tetrazzini

In Australia we have our ‘pasta bake, a handy dish that you can generally throw together pretty quickly because often you will  have the necessary ingredients on hand and if you are missing one or two you can make do. It’s perfect if you have to ‘bring a plate’; it freezes well; and it’s tasty.

But who first thought of the delicious combination that is Chicken Tetrazzini. There are three possible claimants, all of which are plausible. One was a chef in San Francisco; one was a chef in New York and both the claims were around the early 1900’s. The third possible inventor was supposedly the French chef Auguste Escoffier, but it really doesn’t sound like the type of dish he would have been associated with.   However there is no dispute over the origin of the name; that belongs to the famous Italian opera singer – Luisa Tetrazzini.

 

 

Chicken Tetrazzini

Traditionally spaghetti was used (which is what I will use) but in Australia there has been a tendency to substitute penne or fusilli pasta.
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Course: Main Course
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • One barbecued Chicken flesh retained, skin and bone put aside 1350
  • 1 litre vegetable stock
  • 300 g Spaghetti
  • 60 g butter
  • 3 garlic cloves finely chopped
  • 5 ml lemon juice
  • 250 g button mushrooms washed, drained and sliced
  • 80 ml 1/3 cup white wine
  • 50 g 1/3 cup plain flour
  • 500 ml 2 cups chicken liquid stock
  • 250 ml 1 cup milk
  • 300 ml cooking cream
  • 120 g 1 1/2 cups 50/50 grated cheddar and grated parmesan
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh continental parsley plus extra to sprinkle
  • Salt and pepper.
  • 10 g extra butter for greasing the dish

Equipment

  • For this recipe you’ll require three saucepans, a fine strainer and a lasagne style dish

Method
 

  1. In a saucepan place the chicken bones, skin and any juices from the barbecued chicken bag. Cover with the vegetable stock. Bring to the boil and turn the heat down to low. Simmer this stock for 30 minutes.
  2. Cut the chicken meat into a large dice.
  3. In a separate saucepan cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water as per the instructions on the pack. Cook till underdone or “al dente”. When ready drain and rinse and put aside
  4. Pre-heat your oven to 180c
  5. In a separate saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Sweat the garlic.
  6. Add mushrooms and lemon juice and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Keep cooking until the liquid produced has evaporated. Take off the heat and add the flour.
  7. Stir the flour in and cook for a further 1-2 minutes. Adjust the heat to prevent scorching before taking the saucepan off the heat
  8. Strain the stock and let it settle before removing any fat from the surface
  9. Add 500 ml of this stock to the mushroom saucepan. Return to the heat and bring to the boil while stirring.
  10. Add white wine. Combine well. Continue stirring
  11. Add milk and cream. Bring back to simmer while stirring
  12. Adjust seasoning
  13. Stir in half the cheese mixture and half the chopped parsley
  14. In your lasagne style dish cover the bottom with bottom with 2-3mm of sauce.
  15. Add the chicken
  16. Add the cooked pasta to the saucepan. Combine well.
  17. Turn out this chicken mix out into the dish. Spatula out all of the mixture.
  18. Sprinkle the rest of the parsley and cheese on top
  19. Bake for 15 minutes until the top is golden brown.
  20. When ready let it stand for five minutes before serving.

Notes

I used an unseasoned barbecue chicken from Costco. It was 1.35 kg, which is heavier than the chickens sold elsewhere. I kept a little of the breast meat for some sandwiches
You will end up with too much stock so freeze it for future use
This recipe is easily adaptable for both seafood and vegetarian

 

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Newsletter #10 – Meat mixed grill

 

The Mixed Grill (part 2 – with meat)

I hope you have your grill or frypan handy for this week’s recipe. Alternatively if the weather is fine and warmish and you have a few friends over, why don’t you fire up the Barbie?

I have avoided including a number of meats that would have featured in The Adam’s Hotel traditional mixed grill. Nevertheless at around 300g of uncooked meat plus sides it is still a large meal, but plated, it looks very appealing.

If you are shopping at a minimum service supermarket you may struggle to purchase ‘single’ amounts, so you will have to resort to storing the extra cutlets and sausages in your freezer.

If you are tempted to make your gravy from scratch, perhaps make it the day before and then leave out what you think you need and freeze the rest.

Firstly blanch the chips in either boiling water for ten minutes or in the hot canola oil (around 150c) for seven minutes before draining. Leave them on the side for the final cooking

Importantly, pat all the meats dry with kitchen paper before seasoning the lamb, beef and pork. Brush the meats with oil and add a little oil to your hot pan.

The sausage should take the longest so start with that and then progressively the other meats. The mushroom should be next, followed by tomato, apple and finally the bacon. If you are grilling for a few people, keep the bits and pieces warm in the oven as they finish cooking. Juices that collect are precious and should be added to the gravy, plus perhaps a dash of red wine.

                   

Meanwhile you’ll need to get the peas going in salted boiling water and also heat the gravy.

The chips should now return to the hot oil (about 180c). Cook them until golden brown and crispy. When perfect drain them and place them on kitchen paper to absorb the last of the oil.

Choose a large dinner plate for assembly and consider presenting the peas and chips separately.

I chose a grill plate with ridges that could fit on the glass-topped stove we have. You will also need two small saucepans – one for your chips and one for the green peas. To heat the gravy, your microwave will do.

 

The Mixed Grill (part 2 - with meat)

(per person)
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Course: Main Course
Ingredients Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • One x Lamb cutlet French trimmed
  • One x thick Chicken and fetta Sausage
  • 60 g Pork fillet centre cut
  • 60 g Beef steak fillet or sirloin
  • 50 g Streaky bacon
  • One x fresh tomato ‘golf ball size’, firm, ripe, cored.
  • One flat mushroom
  • One garlic clove peeled, thinly sliced.
  • One slice about 4mmGranny Smith apple
  • Extra virgin Olive oil
  • Salt and pepper
  • 50 g frozen peas
  • Two leaves fresh mint
  • 250 g potato one large, peeled and cut into 70-80mm x 15ml x 15ml strips
  • 5 g butter
  • 200 ml canola oil
  • 80 ml sauce Espagnole gravy
  • Sharwood’s mango and ginger chutney to serve
  • Watercress or parsley garnish

Method
 

  1. Assemble and prepare all the non-meat accompaniments for your mixed grill – chips, mushroom, tomato, apple, garlic, parsley
  2. Blanch the chips for ten minutes in boiling water. The cut potatoes should still be holding together when done. Drain them, let them dry out and put aside till later
  3. Pre-heat your grill plate. It needs to be hot enough to grill but not too hot to char any single ingredient
  4. Pat all the meat dry and then lightly salt the lamb, chicken and beef
  5. Brush those meats with oil
  6. Start grilling the sausage and progressively add the other the other meats
  7. Adjust the heat accordingly
  8. When you are comfortable with how the meat is progressing add the mushroom you have seasoned, oiled and popped the garlic in.
  9. It’s time to get your deep fryer pot going and your other pot happening for the peas.
  10. When the oil is hot enough carefully add the potatoes
  11. Brush the tomato and apple with oil and add to the grill plate
  12. Add your peas to the boiling salted water
  13. Add the bacon to the grill plate
  14. When the individual grills are done to your liking, take them off and let them sit for a minute or two
  15. This should give you enough time to finish the chips, peas and gravy
  16. Drain the peas and add the butter and mint.
  17. Turn your deep fryer off and carefully take out the finished chips; drain them well and lightly salt them
  18. Add collected meat juices to the gravy
  19. Arrange everything on a pre-warmed plate.
  20. Serve with chutney on the side.

Notes

There’s a bit to think about in the recipe and timing is important
• Adjust the meats to suit your tastes
• Think about combining elements of this recipe with the vegetarian mixed grill from two weeks ago

 

Sauce Espagnole  – Our Gravy

This sauce is one of five ‘Mother sauces’ of France. The other four “mother sauces are Bechamel, Veloute, Tomato and Hollandaise. Sauce Espagnole will be the base sauce for our gravy. Check ‘Cookery Basics’ for the recipe for beef stock; alternatively you could purchase a readymade stock.

 

SAUTE BACON AND VEGETABLES

EVERYTHING IN – COOKING

STRAINING

FINISHED PRODUCT

Sauce Espagnole  - Our Gravy

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Course: Sauces
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 25 g butter
  • 25 g bacon roughly diced.
  • 1/2 cup diced onion
  • 1/4 cup diced carrot
  • 1/4 cup diced celery
  • 25 g plain flour
  • 750 ml beef stock
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Two sprigs fresh thyme
  • Four fresh parsley stems
  • ½ tsp whole black peppercorns
  • 100 ml tbsp tomato puree

Equipment

  • You’ll need a heavy based saucepan and a fine strainer for this recipe

Method
 

  1. Heat your saucepan and melt the butter. When sizzling add the bacon
  2. Sauté the bacon for 5 minutes; add the diced vegetables and continue cooking until the bacon and vegetables are nicely coloured. Take off heat.
  3. Add the flour to absorb the fat. This is called a roux. Place the saucepan back on a low heat to cook out the flour for 2 minutes. Take off heat
  4. Add the stock and stir to dissolve the roux. Make sure the bottom of the saucepan is free of roux.
  5. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring the liquid to the boil.
  6. When boiling turn down to a low simmer.
  7. Simmer for one hour.
  8. Avoid seasoning at this stage
  9. Strain through a fine strainer
  10. Refrigerate, freeze or use straight away.

Notes

You may be wondering why I took the saucepan off the heat. The general rule when making roux is that you add cold stock to hot roux or vice versa. This is to eliminate the lumps that form when you add hot to hot.
As mentioned this is a base sauce and can be used in most recipes requiring a “gravy” style sauce.
Use the collected juices from the grilled meat to enrich the espagnole or a packet gravy mix

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Newsletter # 9 I’ve heard of that: Ossobuco

       

 

This dish originates from the Lombardy region of Northern Italy. The cut of meat is a cross-cut veal shank. Think of a very large lamb shank cut across the bone, about 3cm-4cm thick. One piece is generally considered to be a portion. They make a perfect braise in either a thick based Dutch oven or a slow cooker. Traditionally served with a Risotto which bears the name of the region’s capital city, Milan. We’ll have a look at risotto on another day; today I will serve the Ossobuco with another Italian staple – creamy polenta. Finally we’ll make the traditional accompaniment – Gremolata.

Depending where you shop you may have difficulty in obtaining veal. If so you can substitute yearling or ‘young beef’. Regardless make sure the bone on each portion has a nice centre of marrow. If you are purchasing them at your favourite butcher get them to gently trim the outside sinew – this will prevent the shanks curling up when you seal them.

You can substitute beef stock for the veal stock and I thinly sliced the garlic instead of crushing it.

Ingredients

Pat the meat dry with some kitchen paper; season the meat on both sides and then generously dust the surfaces with plain flour, before shaking off the excess.

In a hot frypan pour the olive oil and seal the shanks until golden brown all over; it should take about 8-10 minutes. When done place the Ossobuco in your cooking pot.

Add the garlic, onion, carrot and celery and a little more oil to the same frypan and cook for a further 6 or so minutes. Try to avoid too much colour on the vegetables. Remember burnt vegetables, particularly onion will make the finished dish bitter.

       

You could add the thyme, bay leaf and seasonings at this point, but be sparing with the salt.

Add the vegetables to your cooking pot

Deglaze the frypan with the stock.

Add the tomato paste, tomatoes and wine to your pot.

Bring the pot to a simmer and stir a little before turning the pot down to a very slow simmer.

Lid the pot now with only an occasional stir. Simmer for one hour.

If you are cooking the Ossobuco on your stove top it will probably be faster but require a little more care, with a little more stirring to prevent the sauce from sticking. Alternative if your pot is capable of going in the oven, pre-heat your oven to 150c before placing  your lidded pot, after it starts to simmer, in the oven.

If you are using a slow cooker you may find you end up with too much sauce. If so, carefully take out the meat, trying to keep your portions whole. At this point check the seasoning of the sauce; if you’re happy with the flavour and consistency use it as-is and use the leftover sauce in another recipe or freeze it for future use.

 If the sauce needs seasoning and is too thin, reduce the sauce on your stove top and then check the seasoning.

Ossobuco

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Course: Main Course
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • Two cross-cut veal shanks around 300g each
  • 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
  • One medium sized onion peeled, small even dice
  • One medium size carrot peeled, small even dice
  • One small celery stalk washed, small even dice
  • Three garlic cloves peeled, crushed
  • One tbsp tomato paste
  • Two firm ripe tomatoes blanched, peeled and chopped
  • One cup dry white wine
  • 4 ooml veal stock or beef stock
  • One bay leaf
  • ½ bunch of Italian parsley washed, picked, chopped
  • Five sprigs fresh thyme sprigs leaf only
  • coarse salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste

Equipment

  • Choose either a lidded Dutch oven or an electric slow-cooker in conjunction with a frypan for this recipe.

Method
 

  1. If you are using a slow cooker, turn it on high setting and preheat the insert with some boiling water.
  2. In either your Dutch oven or your frypan place the oil and turn on high heat
  3. Pat the meat portions dry with absorb, season them and dust each shank portion with flour. Shake off excess flour. Adjust the heat.
  4. Place both portions in the hot oil. Seal until golden brown before turning. You need to achieve a similar colour on the other side as well as the edges of the shanks.
  5. Place the sealed shanks in the slow cooker (after draining the hot water) or on the side so you can cook the onion, carrot, celery and garlic in the frypan or Dutch oven. Add a little extra olive oil if needed
  6. Sweat the vegetables for about 6 minutes; a little colour is OK. Do not scorch or burn the vegetables.
  7. Add the cooked vegetables to your slow cooker or add back the veal shanks to the Dutch oven
  8. De-Glaze the frypan with white wine and add to the slow cooker. You are now finished with the frypan. Alternatively add the wine to the Dutch oven
  9. Adjust the Dutch oven heat to medium
  10. Add the tomato paste, tomatoes, stock, thyme and bay leaf.
  11. Bring the Dutch oven to the boil; turn down to lowest heat setting. Give it a stir before covering the Dutch oven
  12. Do the same with the slow-cooker.
  13. The cooking time will vary – depending on thickness. Allow 1 – 11/2 hours for either pot, stirring occasionally. After 1 hour test the meat and then every 10 – 15 minutes. Naturally expect the slow cooker to take a little longer than the Dutch oven
  14. When tender (but not falling of the bone) take out. Take out the bay leaf. Reduce the sauce if necessary. Check seasoning
  15. Stir in the chopped parsley. Ready

Notes

When not stirring make sure you try and keep the lid on your pot to prevent too much evaporation
Left over sauce can be frozen and used in other casseroles

Cornmeal

Corn is a relative late comer in Italian cuisine compared to pasta, but it is thought that corn was introduced to Italy before another ingredient that Italy is famous for – tomatoes.

Cornmeal is made from dried corn kernels which have been ground to either a coarse, medium or fine granule. In Italy Cornmeal is known as polenta.

Polenta is so versatile. Depending on the recipe you can use it to make cakes or grill it or even make polenta fries with it. In today’s recipe, Creamy Polenta I have used a vegetable stock. Alternatively you could use chicken stock. The texture is soft and creamy and perfect for to help you mop up the Ossobuco sauce.

 

Ingredients

Creamy Polenta

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Course: Side Dish
Ingredients Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 20 ml extra virgin olive oil
  • One small onion peeled, diced
  • One garlic clove peeled, minced
  • Two cups chicken stock
  • ¾ cup of cornmeal polenta
  • 30 g butter
  • 1/3 cup shredded parmesan cheese
  • 10 ml cream optional
  • sea salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste

Method
 

  1. In a small pot, over medium heat, sweat the onion and garlic in the olive oil for about 6 minutes. A little colour is OK. Do not scorch or burn the onion or garlic
  2. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to low
  3. Using your whisk to stir, pour the cornmeal into the stock in a steady stream’
  4. Turn the heat down til the mixture is barely boiling and continue to stir with the whisk
  5. Stir occasionally for the next for up to 15 minutes, depending on the coarseness of the grain
  6. Add the butter, parmesan, and seasoning
  7. Cook for a few more minutes
  8. Serve

Notes

The cooking time will vary depending on the coarseness of the cornmeal. If you are using fine grade (the most common) it will be about 5 minutes
Polenta will keep warm (covered) at the back of the stove
Cooked leftover polenta can be refrigerated for up to five days. To reheat the polenta on the stove, add a little boiling stock and breakup the polenta with your whisk. Stir it until it is creamy again.

Gremolata

Your last task is the Gremolata. Fresh chopped parsley does not have good keeping qualities so it’s best to not combine the individual ingredients until the last moment. Use sparingly if you are unsure.
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Course: Accompliment, Side Dish
Ingredients Method

Ingredients
  

  • Zest of ¼ medium size lemon finely grated
  • 1 finely minced small garlic clove
  • Leaf from 1/5th bunch of Italian parsley washed, picked, chopped not too small.
  • A pinch of sea salt

Method
 

  1. In a bowl mix the three ingredients together
  2. Sprinkle the mix on the top of your finished braise

 

 

 

 

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Newsletter # 8 – The Mixed Grill

 

Iconic Australian Hotels – The Adams Hotel Sydney.

I wish I had a direct connection to The Adams Hotel, but this famous hotel was demolished in 1969, the year before I reached the legal drinking age. I did however work in the hotel that replaced it – The Sydney Hilton. Any conversation about The Adams Hotel could very easily drift into one of the many other interests that George Adams, the hotels namesake, had.

George Adams migrated to Australia in his mid teens, in 1855. He spent a number of years in various occupations including gold mining, jackaroo, stock dealer and butcher. Over time Adams developed a love of horse racing and gambling. By 1875 he was able to purchase the license to a Hotel in Kiama on the N.S.W. south coast.

A likeable man of influence and with many good friends, Adams frequented The Tattersall’s Club in Sydney where the common interest was gambling. The Tattersall’s club had already been re-named The Tattersall’s Hotel when in 1878 three of Adam’s friends purchased the hotel for him. Apparently it was a deal done on a handshake. Did I not mention that they were very good friends.

Still under the name Tattersall’s, George Adam’s expanded the gambling operation to be even more successful and by 1884 he had repaid the 40000 pounds that his friends had paid for the hotel.

The hotel had not undergone any updating since 1860 and realising that he had to stay ahead of his competitors, Adam’s in 1890, embarked on a renovation spree.

The work included expanding the hotel’s footprint to include constructing The Palace Theatre next door which included Sydney’s first electric power station. An arcade running from Pitt Street to George Street, decorated with imported marble and rich timbers was also constructed. By far the most opulent appointment was the fabulous Marble Bar and its collection of Julian Ashton paintings. Designed to Adam’s specifications, very early on The Marble Bar was destined to become a world famous watering hole.

George Adams became very wealthy and still found time to run a coal company in N.S.W. plus a brewery in Tasmania. But the main source of his wealth was his gambling empire –Tattersall’s.

Today, George Adam’s financial legacy is entwined in Tabcorp, Australia’s largest gambling company. However I like to think he might like to be better remembered for his beautiful Marble Bar.

The Mixed Grill

A popular counter lunch at The Adams Hotel in the early 20th Century was the mixed grill. The classic English version could have featured lamb chop, beefsteak, pork or beef sausage, lamb’s fry, kidney, gammon, chicken and bacon. A fried egg, green peas, grilled tomato as well as gravy would have accompanied the meat. This was all balanced with a healthy serving of chips. It sounds like a very challenging meal.

  

Many cuisines offer an interpretation of the mixed grill. In Italy marinated chicken would be featured while you would find skewered meats in menus not only the Middle East but also in Spain and Latin America. Generally the main ingredients should be grilled but the cooking style of the accompaniments will differ – baked potato and beans in China; chips and chutney in England; pickled vegetables in Romania; buttered toast in the American mid- west.

Today, by popular demand, I’m featuring an updated version of the mixed grill that doesn’t feature meat; but don’t worry, a more traditional mixed grill will be featured in a couple of weeks

You’ll need a flat top grill or ridged grill or a frypan, a small saucepan for blanching, and a stick blender to prepare this meal.

 

           

 

Vegetarian Mixed grill

It is important that the cooking times for all the vegetables are similar and this can be achieved by blanching. Some vegetables benefit from blanching in boiling salted water prior to grilling, particularly denser vegetables. I blanched the potatoes, corn, sweet potato and onion. Additionally I blanched the asparagus. The way you cut the vegetables is also important; different shapes will give you better presentation on your plate. If you are doing a large amount use your oven to keep the finished vegetables. The choice of vegetables is up to you – whatever is good in the market. Some vegetables are best avoided. These include leafy greens, peas and beans. The volume of vegetables you have to purchase will feed more than 4 persons, but keep in mind you have the rest of the week to use up your vegetables in other recipes Some of the zucchini will be turned into a blended sauce.
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Course: Main Course, Vegetarian
Ingredients Method

Ingredients
  

  • Two Kestrel Potato – peeled 4 thick slices, blanched 10 minutes
  • One ear of corn – cleaned cut in four, blanched 8 minutes
  • One small sweet potato peeled, cut in four, blanches 7 minutes
  • Two small onion peeled, halved, blanched 7 minutes
  • One bunch of asparagus 4 spears, trimmed, blanched 2 minutes
  • Two Japanese eggplant washed, split
  • 1 x 200g Haloumi cheese 4 x 50g slices
  • One red pepper with garlic and pine nuts
  • Two medium size tomatoes washed, cored, halved
  • ½ Butternut pumpkin peeled, 4 x 1cm thick slices,
  • 350 g zucchini washed, 4 x 60g slices for grilling, the rest thinly sliced for the sauce
  • Four mushroom caps destalked.
  • Six cloves Garlic peeled, 4 slit, 2 chopped
  • One bunch basil – about 8-10 leaves
  • Salt and pepper
  • 10 g Pine nuts toasted
  • Extra virgin olive oil.

Method
 

  1. SAUCE
  2. Heat your small frypan with a little oil
  3. Add the chopped garlic, sauté for 30 seconds
  4. Add sliced zucchini. Cook for another one minute
  5. Add basil leaf, stir in.
  6. Season
  7. Blend all with stick blender
  8. When blended chill to retain colour
  9. GRILLING
  10. Heat you pan – hot enough to sear and brown the vegetables
  11. Brush the vegetables and the pan with oil
  12. Start with the vegetables which take the longest – potatoes, corn, sweet potato and pumpkin. Turn the vegetables occasionally
  13. Colour these before you put the next vegetables on – eggplant, zucchini red capsicum and mushroom
  14. Add 8 halves of garlic. Cook those a little before putting them onto the mushrooms
  15. Add onion, tomato and asparagus.
  16. Cooking times will vary. Adjust heat accordingly
  17. When finished serve with zucchini sauce. Sprinkle the grilled capsicum with pine nuts

1. SAUCE

2. SAUCE

3. SAUCE

 

4. SAUCE

BRUSHING VEGETABLES

GRILLING VEGETABLES

 

 

Next week: Ossobuco with creamy polenta. An easy recipe for one or two people

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Newsletter #7 – Potatoes / Pumpkin Soup

           

 

Continuing with the carbohydrate theme here are another couple of potato recipes plus a bonus roasted soup recipe – all very tasty.

Baked Stuffed Potatoes

4 portions

These potatoes are great as an accompaniment for a grilled steak. Alternatively you can choose tiny potatoes and use as a finger food item. You will need a small frypan, a baking sheet and a bowl for this recipe.

  • 4 x Potatoes, around 200g each
  • 60g Bacon, lean, rind less; small dice
  • 10ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 20g Butter
  • One small brown onion, around 80g, peeled, finely chopped
  • 60 ml sour cream
  • ¼ bunch chives, washed and chopped
  • 10g Parsley, washed and chopped
  • 60g Cheddar Cheese, grated
  • Paprika, scant
  • Salt and pepper

                                                   

Method:

  • Pre-heat oven to 175c
  • Select even size potatoes, remove any dirt by washing and scrubbing
  • Place potatoes either on a baking sheet or directly on the oven rack
  • Bake the potatoes for 45 minutes until the skin is crisp but the potatoes ‘give’ a little when pressed
  • While the potatoes are cooking, cut the bacon into a 3mm dice
  • Heat the oil in your frypan and add the diced bacon and onion. Sauté on low heat until the bacon is brown and a little crispy and the onion is caramelising. When ready take off the heat and keep the bacon and onion warm.
  • When cooked remove the potatoes from the oven

                                               

  • Place the hot potatoes on your kitchen bench. Using a serrated knife slice off the top 10% of the potato, parallel to your kitchen bench
  • While holding onto the potato with a clean tea towel , scoop out the inside of the potato into your bowl until leaving a potato ‘shell’ about 3mm thick
  • Mash the hot potato before adding half the cheese and all of the rest of the ingredients except paprika. Check the seasoning
  • Mix well
  • Divide the potato mix evenly between the potato shells
  • Top each potato with a little cheese and a sprinkle of paprika
  • Return the finished potato to the oven and bake for 10-15 minutes until the potato tops are golden brown
  • Serve

Notes:

  • I used a nylon scourer to clean the potatoes
  • These potatoes do well when prepared the day before (and refrigerated). When you go to cook them, microwave them a little before putting them in the oven

Warm Potato Salad

This salad recipe lies somewhere between a German Potato Salad with its vinaigrette dressing and the creamy mayonnaise style with which we are familiar.  It goes well with a veal or pork schnitzel. The combination of the egg yolk, vinegar and oil and the hot potato makes the dressing. You will need a small saucepan, a bowl and a wooden spoon for this recipe.

Ingredients:

  • 500g small new potatoes, peeled cut into 2cm cubes or 4mm slices
  • 40mlWhite wine vinegar
  • One egg yolk
  • 80ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 20g Dijon Mustard
  • Salt and pepper
  • 80g red onion, peeled, thinly sliced
  • 2 x shallots, picked, cold rinsed, dried, cut in 1cm pieces
  • 10g parsley, picked, cold rinsed, dried, rough chopped

                   

Method:

  • Rinse the prepared potatoes in cold running water before covering them with fresh cold water in your saucepan. Add a little salt. Bring to boil. Turn down to simmer. Cook till the potatoes are tender, but not overcooked – around twenty minutes.
  • Meanwhile place the vinegar, egg yolks, oil, mustard and seasoning in your bowl. Mix.
  • Stir in the onion, shallots and parsley. Mix well.
  • Be sure that the egg yolk has mixed in

                   

  • When the potatoes are ready drain them well
  • Add the hot potatoes to the bowl and quickly mix in. Ensure you have even distribution of dressing, onions and parsley.
  • Serve

Notes:

  • I steamed the potatoes, instead of boiling them
  • As an alternative you could not peel the potatoes

 

Roasted Butternut Pumpkin Soup

This is a recipe I developed for a hotel chain that was promoting a healthy eats menu. It was a time when over consumption of fat and salt was a focus. In the meantime carbohydrates, among other nutrients have been added to the list. Never-the-less this is a tasty soup perfect for our upcoming winter. It is suitable to make it in bulk and freeze portions plus you can think up additional garnishes. Two garnishes that I have used include prawn and green onion as well as a mixture of sour cream, toasted macadamias, crispy bacon and chopped chives. Yes it is a departure from ‘healthy eats’ but it is delicious.

You’ll need a baking dish (or two), a large saucepan, a large bowl and a medium-fine sieve.

Makes 3 1/2 litres

Ingredients:

  • 5 Kg Butternut Pumpkin, peeled, de-seeded, 3cm cubes
  • Three medium Onions, peeled, rough chopped
  • 100ml Extra Virgin olive oil
  • 3 tsp chopped garlic
  • 2 tsp ginger, chopped
  • 1 tsp chopped chilli
  • 5 litres vegetable stock
  • Two bay leaf
  • 50ml honey
  • 10ml lemon juice
  • ½ tsp salt
  • ¼ tsp ground white pepper

                                               

Method:

  • Preheat your oven to 175c
  • Place the pumpkin and onion in the baking dish and splash it with the oil
  • Roast in the oven for 20 minutes, giving the mix an occasional stir
  • Add the garlic, ginger and chilli to the pumpkin mix. Stir in
  • Continue roasting for another twenty minutes. The pumpkin should be browning a little. Try and avoid browning the onion.
  • The pumpkin should be soft by now. Continue cooking if not.
  • When ready, take out of the oven and place the pumpkin mix in your saucepan
  • Hold back 300ml of stock; put the rest of the stock in with the pumpkin
  • ‘Deglaze’ the baking dish over a medium heat with the 300ml of stock. Discard any scorched pieces of onion. Add the stock deglaze to the rest of the stock and pumpkin
  • Add the bay leafs, honey, lemon juice and seasoning to the stock
  • Bring the saucepan to the boil. Turn down to simmer
  • Simmer for 30 minutes. Take off heat. Remove the two bay leafs
  • In batches strain the soup into the bowl. Push the solids through your sieve with the back of a spoon. This puree will give the soup its thickness
  • When finished you should have around less than one cup of ‘solids’. Discard these.
  • The finished product should be a soup consistency. Check seasoning
  • Serve with toast

Notes:

  • The flavour of this soup seems to improve overnight in the fridge
  • It’s a little bit spicy so you can decrease the chilli if you need to

 

 

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Newsletter # 6 – Fruit desserts – Pears

   

Pears in Australia are available in store for much of the year but are at their peak during what we consider the cooler months. Pear orchards, with the exception of Stanthorpe in South East Queensland and Manjimu

p in Southern Western Australia are all located in the southern states.

The varieties of pear you are likely to find at the market include Beurre Bosc, Bartlett, Corella and the ones I am using today – the Packham Pear.

 

While the “Packham” story may not be as well known as the Granny Smith apple it does share similar historical credentials. It was first grown in the central the west of New South Wales, in 1896, near the township of Molong. Today this Australian Pear is a top seller around the world.

 

Firstly let’s have a look at how to poach pears and follow it up with two delicious recipes.

Poaching Pears

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Course: Dessert
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • Six ripe pears even in size
  • 1 litre water
  • 500 g sugar
  • 2 lemons
  • ½ small cinnamon quill

Equipment

  • You’ll need a peeler; a small scoop to core the pears; a small saucepan; A slotted spoon plus some greaseproof or silicon paper. To poach pears you will need sugar syrup.

Method
 

  1. In your saucepan place the water and sugar. Slowly dissolve the sugar over low heat before bringing the syrup to the boil. Avoid stirring the water
  2. Add the juice of 11/2 lemons and cinnamon to the water. Bring back to simmering
  3. Meanwhile peel and gently core the pears. Concentrate on retaining the natural shape of the pear. Shave off any dark bruising
  4. As you peel each pear, place the peeled pear in cold water that has had the juice of half a lemon added. This will stop the pears from browning.
  5. When all the pears are peeled, gently place them in the syrup. Make sure they don’t rest on the bottom of the saucepan.
  6. Cover with a circle of paper
  7. Turn your stove down till it is just simmering
  8. Cook for 20 – 30 minutes. Test with fine toothpick
  9. When cooked cool the pears in the syrup before refrigerating them.

Notes

In peak season fresh firm, ripe pears are deliciously sweet and scented. They offer lots of possibilities for desserts, cakes and salads.

Pears Belle Helene

This recipe uses a chilled poached pear and the preparation of the chocolate sauce is pretty quick.
Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Course: Dessert
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

Chocolate Sauce Recipe for Pears Belle Hélène
  • 200 g dark chocolate.
  • 100 g milk chocolate.
  • 300 ml cream.
  • 10 ml brandy optional.

Equipment

  • You will need a small saucepan to heat the cream, a bowl for to mix the sauce plus a whisk or wooden spoon.

Method
 

  1. Break or chop the chocolate up and place in a bowl. Stainless Steel or Pyrex style is good.
  2. In a separate pot heat the cream to almost boiling before pouring the cream over the chocolate,
  3. Gently stir the combination until it is smooth. Serve warm or at room temperature.
  4. It will firm up if you refrigerate the sauce (for up to a week).
  5. Assembly:
  6. Your dessert plate should be at room temperature
  7. Drain the chilled whole poached pear well.
  8. Square off the base if required so that the pear is upright and stable.
  9. Coat half of the pear with chocolate sauce.
  10. A scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side
  11. Garnish with an edible garnish of contrasting colour – I used green mint leaf.

Notes

If you find this sauce too rich you could increase the ratio of milk chocolate and also add a little more cream
A gentle heating in a microwave (after refrigeration) will return the mix to sauce consistency.

Pear upside down cake

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Course: Dessert
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

  • 5 ripe pears peeled cored, cut into 2cm-thick wedges for fresh pears, a little thinner for poached pears.
  • 100 ml pear poaching liquid if available concentrated by 50% and 130g brown sugar, otherwise increase the brown sugar a little.
  • 270 g unsalted butter softened
  • 300 g caster sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 2/3 cups (250g) plain flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 80 g almond meal
  • 1 cup 250ml milk
  • Thick cream to serve

Equipment

  • Your will need a greased and lined 25cm spring form tin and your electric mixer for this recipe.

Method
 

  1. Preheat oven to 180°C (not fan-forced).
  2. Sprinkle brown sugar and concentrated syrup over the base.
  3. Melt 100g of the butter and pour over brown sugar syrup mix. In a neat pattern top with overlapping pear slices.
  4. Place remaining butter and caster sugar in bowl of electric mixer beat on medium speed until light and fluffy. It should take about 5-6 minutes.
  5. Add eggs one at a time while beating. Turn the mixer off occasionally and scrape the sides of the bowl with a spatula.
  6. On a low speed fold in the dry ingredients.
  7. Mix in the milk to form a smooth batter.
  8. Pour all of the batter over the prepared pears.
  9. Place pan on a baking tray, to catch any possible leaks and place in the oven.
  10. Bake for 45 minutes and drop the temperature to 150c.Cover if necessary to prevent overbrowning. Continue baking for another 30 minutes.
  11. When ready take the cake out and cool for 20-30 minutes.
  12. Carefully invert the cake on to a suitable sized serving plate.
  13. Serve with thickened cream for afternoon tea or warm with vanilla ice cream as a dessert.

Notes

This recipe is suitable with drained poached pears or because of the extended cooking time you can use fresh pears as long as they are ripe.

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Newsletter #5 – Carbohydrates in Diet

   

 

First apologies, I promised some pear recipes, however, the pears aren’t quite ripe yet.  Hopefully next Newsletter. Ken.

History Bites  – Carbohydrates in Diet

 

These days’ for many people, particularly older Australians who enjoy a western diet, the mention of the word carbohydrate will have connotations of some of the many foods that their doctor has advised them to avoid or limit their intake. Yes, bread, pasta, pastries and potatoes are pretty tasty and because they are so available, in so many varieties, there is a natural tendency to over consume. It is now known that carbohydrates, particularly starchy ones were essential to the evolution of modern big-brained humans and were crucial for energy, overall fitness and brain development.

Naturally occurring sources of carbohydrate have existed for tens of thousands of years and have helped shape the cuisines of every continent except Antarctica and Australia. The frozen continent far to the south is an obvious exclusion, but why Australia.

Indigenous Australians were considered Hunter-Gatherers and sourced carbohydrates from a variety of grass seeds, tuberous roots, berries, nuts, fruits and legumes. Depending on where the clan lived Bunya nuts, Millet and Kangaroo grass seeds, Mulga Wattle legumes and fruits and berries from the Kurrajong tree may have been on the menu. Australia is big so the variety matched its size.

However, Australia became a country welcoming many different ethnicities and from the time of European settlement we have relied on the naturally occurring carbohydrates sources of the other five continents. Even now few attempts have been made to commercialise indigenous foods.

Scientific evidence shows us that Oats were eaten in Eastern Europe as long ago as 30000BCE and cultivated from around 9000BCE. Think of Porridge and Welsh Oat Cakes.

Rice was cultivated around 7000BCE in China. By 3300BCE rice was a staple throughout East and South-east Asia. It’s hard to imagine Asia without rice on the menu. Rice failed to migrate into the Pacific Islands, but the Austronesian peoples, the predecessors of the Polynesians slowly populated the Pacific as far as Easter Island. It is generally believed they brought the sweet potato plant back from its native South America, where it had been cultivated for thousands of years

Sago originated in the Indonesian Archipelago and is similar to the Cassava Plant of South America, both yielding starchy “pearls”. Sago is thought to be as old as rice while cassava is a little younger. They both enjoy widespread consumption in the tropical areas of South America, South East Asia and the Pacific Islands.

We owe the Americas gratitude in coming up with Maize and Potatoes. Both can be traced back to being cultivated around 7000BCE. Maize formed the basis Central and South American cuisine, being used for tortillas, tamales, porridge and alcohol. Potatoes had a similar heritage with an estimated 3000 varieties in Chile alone, so it featured in many dishes. The Incas even had a Goddess for Potatoes; her name was  “Axomamma”.

One of the biggest cultivated crops these days is wheat and there is evidence that it was first cultivated in the Middle East around the year 5000BCE. The earliest use of wheat  was the baking of bread.

The Age of Discovery that started in the late 15th century bridged the geographic divide between the “Old and New Worlds”. The term “Colombian Interchange” is used for the exchange of cultivated plants and animals between the eastern and western hemispheres. For most of this time the “New World” received a very bad deal but it did transform the culinary landscape of the world.  Maize, Sweet Potato and Potato were among the many plants that arrived back in Europe, while the “New World” would never be the same after wheat, rye and rice found its way from the “Old World”.

By the time of European settlement in Australia, rice was the fourth most valuable export out of North America and polenta (corn meal) was entrenched in Italian cooking. The Great Famine of the mid 1800’s resulted in the population of Ireland to nearly halve by the year 1901.

So for thousands of years these very individual plants existed, separated by distance, but in the space of 400 years these same plants were being grown in many locations and enjoyed international appeal.

Today’s recipes focus on potatoes.

Who doesn’t like potatoes? Most people agree that in our diet it is not the potato that is the problem; it is the way in which it is prepared and the volume that we consume.  Moderation is the key. Keep that in mind when preparing the following recipes.

Delmonico Potatoes

Makes 10-12 portions

There are many recipes available using the name of this famous New York restaurant. Few are the same, but all share common ingredients, apart from potatoes. Dairy, in the form of cream or milk; cheese; breadcrumb and/or cheese as a topping; before finally going in the oven. Sound familiar? Pommes Dauphinoise from France as well as Australia’s very own Potato Bake comes to mind.

My recipe cooks the Kestrel potatoes in a microwave for about 16 minutes, whole, the day before and grates the cold skinned potato. Alternatively you could cook them in your oven at around 175c, covered and with a little water but it would take longer. I have also added natural yoghurt to the recipe.

If you use your microwave remember to treat with caution when removing the HOT cooked potatoes. You will need a small saucepan, a baking dish, a grater and a bowl plus your dishes for crumbing, for this recipe. I used two smaller Pyrex dishes instead of a baking dish to achieve the same result.

Ingredients:

  • One kilo Kestrel potatoes.
  • 125ml Pure cream
  • 125ml full cream milk
  • 125ml natural yogurt
  • 150g grated cheese
  • One small onion peeled; finely chopped.
  • 65g butter
  • Salt and pepper
  • 80g course breadcrumb
  • Smoked paprika

Method:

  • Rinse the potatoes in cold water and place them in a microwave safe bowl. A little water in the bowl is OK. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or microwave safe plate. Cook for about 16 minutes
  • Refrigerate the potatoes overnight.
  • The next day skin the potatoes (discarding the skins) and course grate the potato

       

  • Pre-heat your oven to 175c
  • Grease a suitable size baking dish with a little of the butter and add the grated potato. Put aside
  • In the saucepan on medium heat sweat the onion in about 50g butter. Avoid colouring the onions
  • When the onions are transparent (about 3 minutes) add the cream, milk, yogurt and half the cheese. Bring to the boil before turning down the heat. Simmer for two minutes. Season.

 

  • Pour the cream mix over the grated potato

  • In the meantime melt the remaining butter and mix into the breadcrumb
  • Top the potato with the remaining cheese and breadcrumb

     

  • Finish with a little sprinkling of paprika
  • Place the dish in the oven and bake for 30 minutes or until the cheese/ breadcrumb is golden brown

     

Notes:

  • If you prefer the finished product to be softer increase the cream, milk and yogurt proportionally.
  • This recipe works well when it is baked in a muffin pan for individual portions. Make sure the pan is well greased
  • Your finished product can be frozen

 

Croquette Potatoes

Makes 10 – 12 portions

Deliciously addictive, with the combination of the crunchy coating and creamy interior. You’ll need a saucepan to boil the potatoes plus a second similar saucepan (or clean the first one) for your temporary deep-fryer plus a fine wire sieve and a couple of bowls, a whisk, a spatula, a large spoon plus a slotted metal spoon for your finished croquettes.

Ingredients:

  • 1kg Kestrel Potatoes
  • 50g Butter
  • Two Egg Yolks
  • Salt and pepper
  • 400g Panko Breadcrumb
  • Flour
  • One Egg plus two egg whites
  • Vegetable oil (Canola or similar, but not Olive oil)

 Method:

  • Peel the potatoes, discarding any blemishes and eyes.
  • Cut the potatoes into 2cm cubes and place in your saucepan. Give them a good cold rinse before draining them.
  • Cover with fresh water and add a little salt.
  • On high heat bring the potatoes to the boil before turning the heat down to simmer the potatoes. Cook the potatoes until they are tender but not falling apart – about twenty minutes
  • Drain the cooked potatoes well. Return them to the saucepan.
  • Whisk in the butter. Check seasoning.
  • Whisk in the egg yolks, on at a time. Be sure to get into the base of the saucepan.
  • Transfer the potatoes into your sieve in batches. Push the potato through the sieve with your spoon. Continue until all the potato has all been passed through.

  • There are a couple of ways to portion the potato to make it ready for crumbing.

     

  • You can use a disposable piping bag to form long tubes and then cut or use a large ice cream scoop to do individual portions.

           

  • For both preparation methods the potato is best handled very gently at room temperature but should be chilled after crumbing to firm them up before frying.
  • Consult images below.
  • The crumbing procedure is flour egg and breadcrumb – in that order.

                                                         

 

Cooking:

  • In a small saucepan pour 400ml oil and bring to frying temp – around 175c. Keep an eye on the temperature. Check the temperature by dropping a little loose breadcrumb in. It should bubble vigorously.
  • Gently lower the croquettes into the oil. Maintain separation. Don’t overload.

                  

  • Regulate the cooking temperature, up or down
  • Cook for one minute. With your slotted spoon turn them to prevent scorching on one side
  • Total cooking time is 2 minutes or until golden brown.
  • Take the croquettes out with your slotted spoon and on to absorbent kitchen paper. Do another batch
  • You should able to do at least 3 batches without keeping the cooked ones warm
  • Serve

Notes:

  • You can substitute a generic brand breadcrumb if you wish. They tend to retain more oil and colour more quickly
  • Yes you can keep them warm in a slow oven but the croquettes will lose their crispness if kept too long
  • The finished oil should still be usable. Strain or filter the cooled oil, seal the oil in a dark container, date and label the container and keep in the fridge.

 

 

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Newsletter #4 –Fruit Desserts – Apples

   

These days in Australia we enjoy year round supply of many fresh fruits. So much so that many people overlook or forget the fact that at any given period of time some fruits are not in season in Australia and hence are imported from far away. People are not even daunted by the sometimes outrageous prices, the age of the fruit or its poor quality when it is purchased at the wrong time. It is not uncommon at a supermarket to observe people lamenting the price of grapes in winter or the lack of sweetness in watermelons in August.

So I thought let’s celebrate Autumn and its abundance of local, delicious apples and pears, plus a few quinces.  First up we will investigate the Granny Smith apple from its accidental discovery to its world famous status. Tarte Tatin, a classic French dessert along with Apple and Quince Crumble are then on the menu.

The Granny Smith Story

When I was growing up in Epping, N.S.W, naturally I had heard of the Granny Smith apple. Later I learnt part of the story and I found out that Grannies farm had been in the neighbouring suburb of Eastwood. In 1985 a few years after our family moved away from Sydney, The Granny Smith Festival started in Eastwood and we attended the festival a number of times in the 1990’s.

You could say that I was more than surprised when, upon investigation I realised that Granny’s farm was on the street where we had lived, albeit at the Eastwood end of the street.

The leafy suburb of Eastwood was once rich farmland, famous for its orchards. It was here that Maria Ann Smith (Granny) and her husband purchased a small orchard in the mid 1850’s. Over time Maria became a prominent and successful local citizen, nicknamed Granny Smith. In the late 1860’s, on her orchard, a chance seedling of uncertain origin, was discovered and cultivated. That seedling became the apple which is named after Maria.

Maria died only two years later but her apple was already popular with Sydneysiders. Interest surged in the 1890’s and the apple started winning awards, prompting Government interest. After The Great War one of Australia’s biggest fruit exports was the Granny Smith Apple.

The rich soil of Eastwood is still there, mostly covered with houses on generous blocks. Close to where that famous orchard was, you can contemplate Maria and her apple as you sit in the Granny Smith Memorial Park.

 

Tarte Tatin

There are a number of stories about cookery mistakes with a happy ending – this is one of them. At their hotel in France the Tatin sisters created this simple dessert but with an impressive flavour you won’t be able to resist.

Tarte Tatin

Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Course: Dessert
Ingredients Equipment Method

Ingredients
  

  • 200 ml water
  • 150 g caster sugar
  • 75 g unsalted butter
  • 5 Granny smith apples washed, peeled, cored, cut in 4- 6 wedges
  • 1 25 cm square sheet of puff pastry thawed and cut into a circle (the diameter of your dish).
  • Unsweetened whipped cream for serving

Equipment

  • Many Tarte Tatin recipes call for a skillet that you can also place in the oven. I used a 22cm glass Pyrex and hoped for the best. You could use a lined spring form but you will need to have a tray under it when it goes in the oven. You will need a small saucepan to cook the caramel and a clean wooden spoon.

Method
 

  1. Lightly grease your skillet or dish with butter
  2. Place the water in the saucepan and the pour the sugar into the centre. Turn to medium heat. Bring to boil slowly. Do not stir the sugar.
  3. Preheat your oven to 190c
  4. The sugar should have dissolved by the time the water boils. Again leave the saucepan alone. You probably have about 20 minutes before the caramel is ready.
  5. As the water evaporates the sugar becomes syrupy and shortly after you will notice a hint of light caramel colour. This is good.
  6. Turn the heat down to low the colour will darken quickly.
  7. Take the saucepan off the heat.
  8. Carefully add the butter. It will bubble vigorously. Stir with the spoon until the butter is incorporated. The caramel should have a creamy texture. Return to the heat.
  9. Add the apple. Gently stir to coat the apple. Continue the cooking process for 3-4 minutes as you stir. You need to retain the shape of the wedges but at the same time cook them a little.
  10. Arrange the apple in the base of your dish. The outside of the apple faces down, for best presentation. Once you think it looks OK fill in any gaps with smaller bits of apple.
  11. Pour the caramel mix over the apple.
  12. Finally cover the apple with the pastry round. Push the pastry down the sides. There is no need to brush the pastry with anything as the pastry forms the base of this dessert.
  13. Place the dish in the oven. Bake until the pastry is golden brown – about 35-40 minutes.
  14. When ready, take out and cool for about 15 minutes.
  15. Invert the Tarte Tatin on to your serving plate.
  16. Serve warm with whipped cream.

Granny Smith Apple and Quince Crumble

Print Recipe Pin Recipe
Course: Dessert
Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients
  

CRUMBLE
  • 70 g Unsalted butter softened
  • 1/3 cup Brown Sugar
  • 1¼ cup Plain flour
  • ½ cup Oats
  • ½ Coconut – desiccated or shredded
  • Couple of drops of vanilla paste or essence
FILLING
  • 2 medium G.S. apples washed, peeled, cored, cut in thin wedges
  • One Quince washed ripe, medium size, peeled, cored, cut in wedges
  • ¼ cup caster sugar
  • 2 cups water
  • ½ cinnamon stick
  • ¼ lemon

Equipment

  • Makes four individual portions (4 x 10cm diameter ramekins)

Method
 

CRUMBLE
  1. In your mixer cream the butter, brown sugar and vanilla.
  2. On low speed add the flour. Beat until breadcrumb consistency
  3. Add oats and coconut. Continue beating on low speed. After a couple of minutes the crumble should have a coarse granular appearance. Ready.
APPLE
  1. In a small saucepan over medium heat place the sugar, water, cinnamon and lemon
  2. When the sugar is dissolved add the Quince. Simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, until the Quince is tender.
  3. When done take off heat.
  4. In a separate saucepan (lidded) place the apple and a ½ cup of the Quince syrup.
  5. Bring the apple to the boil and give it a stir. Turn the heat down and lid the pot
  6. Cook for 5 -8 minutes. The apples can over cook very quickly. When tender remove from heat.
  7. Add the Quince and a little of the syrup to the apple. Gently mix the two fruits together.
ASSEMBLY
  1. Set your oven to 175c
  2. Divide the apple/quince mix between the four ramekins
  3. Spoon the crumble mix over the top of the apple generously
  4. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and then into the oven.
  5. Cook for 35 minutes or until the top is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling up the side.
  6. Serve with Vanilla ice cream.

Notes

The crumble mix keeps very well in the fridge and of course the freezer, as does the cooked fruit.
This crumble mix is suitable for all types of fruit crumbles such as berries, peaches and rhubarb.
Retain the unused syrup for future use.

Look for ‘Pears’ later in the week in newsletter # 5